Wednesday, December 03, 2008

1066 Country

For my antipodean friends I can now offer an update more in line with their own current experiences of hot weather. This is another catch-up of course. Going right back now to the Spring and Summer of the Northern Hemisphere and somewhat better weather in England.

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The coming of spring, the spirit of Summer. It was time to celebrate the enlivening of life and limb for the May day holidays.

4th - 5th May, 2008

Locations: Hastings, Eastbourne, Battle, Pevensey.

Well it was the long weekend of the May Day holiday in England and a fellow colleague and myself decided to set off back to his old stomping grounds in the county of East Sussex. Shane was a Sussex boy who had grown up within sight and experience of what is sometimes called 1066 country. Yes, this is the part of the world where William the Conquerer landed to confront the Anglo-Saxon English king - King Harold.

I assume that most of you know of the Battle of Hastings in 1066 and the fact that William defeated Harold and quickly became the new king of England. Well, needless to say, being inspired as I am by the study and scope of history I was more than interested - nay excited - to head with Shane down to this part of the world and see some of that time so famous come full to life before me.

On our first night we stayed with some family of Shane's in the town of Eastbourne - a town not too far from Brighton (where I have been before). Having arrived a bit earlier we were first able to enjoy the international markets visiting the town this weekend. The architecture along the beachfronts was also of interest. Like Brighton and I was to find the next day, Hastings, the architecture of much of these cities/towns is very geared towards the tourist. It is very different from its Australian equivalents however. There are few highrise buildings and the hotels have a very 1950's "golden age" feel to them. And indeed one finds that this was the heyday of tourism to the coastal towns of southern England. The tradition now continues and millions flock to these pebbled beaches in the English summer.

We also decided to visit the nearby Beachy Head Lighthouse. Here, as in many other parts of southern England chalk cliff faces provide a stunning contrast to the waters beneath.

See below...




Well the next day we were off to true 1066 country and to the town of Hastings. Hastings is essentially divided into two parts - the old town and new town. These are separated not just in name by a coastal mountain - an impressive sight I assure you. Needless to say its was the old town of Hastings that was the more interesting to both Shane and I. It was to here we had come to witness the vestiges of old traditions and pagan beliefs - The Green Man festivities.

This is a way to see England at its finest and its quirkiest. Over the three days of the first May bank holiday every year, the Green man festivals are held around the country - including in Hastings. On the bank holiday - a Monday - the Green Man enters old Hastings town to do battle with the spirit of winter (Jack Frost) in Hastings Castle. In the castle, as I was soon to discover, there is also a May fair held along with Maypole dancing and the inauguration of a May Queen. The festival thus welcomes in the spirit of summer and changing of the seasons. It is a festival resplendent too in symbolism.

The most potent and obvious symbol is that of the Green man itself. This is a symbol that survived and integrated itself with the coming of Christianity to the island of Britain (indeed many Christian missionaries deliberately drew into the new faith symbols and gods of the older). Christians and pagans and now Christians neo-pagans can draw alike from its numinous sense.
That this relationship still exists was shown to us on the day. As we walked past one of the local Church of England churches we could see people preparing for the festival.

See below:


Such happenings and ways of interacting between differing worldviews reminded me of some the flexibility of the Christian religion. Its ability to adapt and draw in has helped it to survive and flourish in many situations. It is also perhaps connected to our very relationship with the Universe, with God its maker and the imbuing of the our lives with moments of the numinous.

For the Christian these symbols can in fact be welcome, or as C.S. Lewis puts it,

“The heart of Christianity is a myth which is also a fact. The old myth of the Dying God, without ceasing to be myth, comes down from the heaven of legend and imagination to the earth of history. It happens – at a particular date, in a particular place, followed by definable historical consequences. We pass from a Balder or an Osiris, dying nobody knows when or where, to a historical Person crucified (it is all in order) under Pontius Pilate. By becoming fact it does not cease to be myth: that is the miracle… To be truly Christian we must both assent to the historical fact and also receive the myth (fact though it has become) and with the same imaginative embrace we accord to all myths. … God is more than a god, not less; Christ is more than Balder, not less. We must not be ashamed of the mythical radiance resting on our theology. We must not be nervous about ‘parallels’ and ‘Pagan Christs’: they ought to be there – it would be a stumbling block if they weren’t. We must not, in false spirituality, withhold our imaginative welcome.”

C.S. Lewis, “Myth Became Fact”



The decorations of spring lay all over the old town of Hastings.


An old pub destroyed, along with all inside, during the 2nd world war.



Shane getting into the spirit of festivities.




The procession through the town begins. Here comes the Jack in the Green.


Toasting the spirits of summer. They bow back too.




The horned god - a potent neo-pagan symbol of the male side of nature.



Up in the castle - a kiss for the Australian.



Old folk dances and traditions survive all across Europe. In England it survives as Morris Dancing.



The Festival in full swing. The Castle behind. A glorious spring day.


The Old town below.



Well with our time at the festival ended it was time to head home. But first we stopped off in the small town of Battle - not too far from Hastings. As might be guessed this is of course where the actual Battle of Hastings took place. If you look at the picture above you can see how the battleground slopes up a hill to an Abbey atop. Battle abbey, as it is called, was actually built by William as penance for his sins commited in killing Harold and conquering England. In the actual battle the Anglo-Saxons, under Harold, were atop the hill. William's men had to attack up the hill to win the day. Easier said then done of course. The battle lasted the whole day.



Well one more thing, we stopped off at the site of the Long Man of Sussex. Since much of the landscape is chalk layered it is easy to carve out shapes in the landscapes of much of southern England. Other parts of England have similar shapes - including other long men and also horses.

Ok, next post soon I promise. I'll be catching up on the Summer Holidays. Cheers all!

Wisdom Post:

FROG

A
guy is 80 years old and loves to fish.
He was sitting in his boat the other day when he heard a voice say,
'Pick me up. '
He looked around and couldn't see any one. He thought
He was dreaming when he heard the voice say again, 'Pick me up.'
He looked in the water and there, floating on the top, was a frog.

The man said, 'Are you talking to me?'
The frog said, 'Yes, I'm talking to you. Pick me up then, kiss me and I'll turn into the most
beautiful woman you have ever seen.
I'll make sure that all your friends are envious and jealous because I
will be your bride!'

The man looked at the frog for a short time, reached over, picked it
up carefully, and placed it in his front breast pocket.

Then the frog said,
'What, are you nuts? Didn't you hear what I said?
I said kiss me and I will be your beautiful bride.'

He opened his pocket, looked at the frog and said,
'Nah, at my age I'd rather have a talking frog.'

With age comes wisdom.


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